Double Clutch Dyno

Two days ago Skyler Weekes was stoked to get me on this famous dyno on Flagstaff Mountain. I had heard of this Dyno as many other people have from the old movie “front Range Freaks.  The history of this problem is actually quite interesting. 

Above: Matt Lloyd
It was first done a static boulder problem ( the hold that this used has since broken) by Bob Williams in 1972. Then Paul Glover ( in front range freaks ) does the dyno Rope less ( with a top rope pre rehearsal). I believe Brian Capps and Sean Drolet have both done this dyno and possibly Mike auldridge using “ some ridiculous number of crashpads, like 12 or 18 or something like that.” Skyler Weekes has done the dyno as well with no roped pre rehearsal.

Above: sky doing his thing

Anyway… The fall from this dyno is really quite terrifying. To put it in perspective i believe this dyno is easier that the Goat Dyno on the Millennium boulder and about the same as “white Men can’t Jump“ in Morrison. So really the difficulty of this dyno is not the crux rather the possibility of a bad 17 food fall to a uneven landing. Even thought i thinking grading a dyno is a bit ridicules M-project gives this thing a V8-9 which seams to be fair in comparison.  Below is some Media i have found of the climb. Either way i went up to this thing thinking it was going to be pretty easy and upon grabbing the start holds promptly gave up and drove back to boulder. The whole way back i was justifying my bail by saying “ it’s not worth a broken leg” and “ it’s just a stupid dyno” however after thinking about it for a while we decided to drive back up and give it a go. (sky is working a new larger dyno just to the right of double clutch )  so he was keen to bring the pads out and give it a go. Well i decided to give it a try, first i inttentionally jumped of the climb and took the fall just to try and convinced myself that i was not going to break my legs. Then i gave it a real go and stuck it second try ( the first fall reminded me that you can in fact break your legs ) .

Above: Front range freaks trailer ( small glimps of Paul Glover dynoing )

Sky dynos.

 This is a new Dyno Project that skyler is working on, it promises to be the hardest yet. Im not sure it even goes... Sky is optimistic.

Metal…

this is my chair… im done with the welding, now its time for wood.  My MIG welding skills are getting considerable better, only problem is my “burning the shit out of myself” also seams to be improving.

I am back

i am finally back in the land of big... big meals, big glasses of water and big cars.  Here are some photos for you to scope.

France

Today is France +3, that means i have been forced to stay here for 3 more days than my original plan called for. It has been both good and bad, i must admit that it is a struggle to loose control of your situation. I do not speak french, my money situation is tragic, and i can be an intense person for my fellow travelers to deal with. However, i am still in France. I eat great food, walk for miles and climb great blocks. Often when i tell people what i am privileged enough to do they say imagine a fairy tale, and it is sometimes. Everything has a cost, i trade financial stability and a high stress level for weeks in foreign climbing destinations. anyway, i dont have too much time, i am leaving in a few minutes to take the metro to Gare de Lyon and then the RER to bois-le-roi to climb in roche canyon, it takes about an hour and from there i will walk for about 3 km to the climbing area. It is the middle of the most beautiful forest, it feels like a dream. wish me luck. here are a couple pictures i have to share.....

a porche and weekend

some pictures from the weekend.

( above : soloing ottos route )

Above: mike climbing the last pitch of ottos route in Colorado national monument.

Below : Mike looked tough in his ghetto ride

above: sport climbing in the poux, this place is a lot better than you might imagine, good steep routes with no approach and 2 hours from denver.